Last Post 09 Jul 2018 11:02 AM by  JUSTIN MORALES
Sluice advice please
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JUSTIN MORALES
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02 Jul 2018 10:47 AM
    I am running a 50” sluice with 2-1/2" high, 9-1/4" wide with a 13-1/4" flange has carpet & miner moss and the metal ramps(not sure what they are actually call). Please correct me if I have bad info, I have read to set with up any where from 4 degrees to 10 degrees pending gold loss and to pan a tailings pile to make sure minimum/no gold loss. I was out this weekend with some success however I kept running into it would take a very long time to run my material through my sluice.... I tried a steaper angledor my water flow and still ran in to running a 1/2 of a 5 gallon bucket of classified material down to 1/12 to 45 minutes or more is this normal for that amount of material? I am putting 1-2 scoops from a normal hand garden shovel to feed the sluice. I read to run your fingers over the mesh to speed up the process and clear away the channels in order to speed up the process. I feel like that would push the gold out or force the gold back in the water. I am still new at this and I guess have the fear of loosing all gold if I rush things is this normal to push through the material or do I need a steaper angle or do anything else? I just want to manage my time correctly and form good habits now rather then for bad habits and then try to learn to break them later. I did not take any pictures of the set up I can next time I head out of it would help. I would appreciate any and all advise on a good set up or anything you found that helps. Thank you in advance for your time.
    ARTHUR WAUGH
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    02 Jul 2018 01:01 PM

    Try an initial setup of 1" drop per foot of sluice, and level from side to side.  In your case, about 4 inches of drop.  If you meant you are feeding 2 shovel fulls from a #2 shovel at a time, you are definitly overloading the feed rate.  You can adjust you angle and flow rate from there.

    With normal flow rate of water, it should clear out in less than a minute when you feed in a couple garden trowels of material.  I like to classify to 1/4 inch before running through my sluice, but it is a 30 inch backpack Royal.

    The crossbars you refer to are the riffles.

    If you need to rake out bigger rocks, you can do it, just run you fingers the direction of water flow when raking them out, trying to make minimal disturbance of other material in the box.

     

    To help in initial setup, I set my boxes on the floor at a 1" per foot drop and stick on the self adhesive camper levels so they show level with that amount of drop on the box.  Makes setup in the creek a little faster.

    Joseph Loyd
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    02 Jul 2018 06:58 PM
    The only thing is more drop in your box .Like Arthur said 5 inches drop is were to start .Water flow has a lot to do with it .and your water should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in the box .not enough water can slow your box down as well.I use my finger to check the depth in the box.
    JUSTIN MORALES
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    05 Jul 2018 06:48 AM
    Art thank you for the advise I will try that next time I’m out!!

    Joe if my water should be 1-2” in my box. Could it be below the water level? Most of the time it’s not it is as you suggested 2” in the box. I was only dropped about 2 inches though on a 50” sluice. From what you guys are sayin that is the reason why my box takes a very long time to clear.

    I guess another question is if I am only working in a 5-6” brook could the end of my sluice be submerged in the water to achieve the 4-5” drop?
    ARTHUR WAUGH
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    05 Jul 2018 07:45 AM

    When you submerge the end of your box, you will lose water velocity, as the water now has an escape other than going through the box.  You will notice material build up at the area that is under water in the box as not enough flow exists to clear it on out.

     

      If your stream is that small, you may be able to get enough water flow through that big of a sluice as well.  Can be tough to fit that big and wide a box on a small stream, and still get the setup needed.   If you have access to a smaller box, or something like a LeTrap, that would likely be a better setup for a small stream like that.

    Joseph Loyd
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    06 Jul 2018 01:53 PM
    or can you build some kind of dam in the creek to raise the water up some to get the drop.
    William Hall
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    06 Jul 2018 03:46 PM
    Justin,

    That is a big sluice for that size of creek, unless I missed something
    I would dought you would have enough water/flow for the riffles to properly work, maybe so.
    Unless as Joseph suggests, damming the water for more head pressure/water flow

    Setting up a sluice is a balancing act, there are no set rules, there are rules of thumb for a starting point, adjust as needed

    You want the sluice level side to side.
    Enough water flow to scour the material off the front flare and over the first riffle with in say 10seconds + -
    The second riffle shortly after that.
    That may mean 2" of water or 1/2" depending on water flow/speed
    You dont want to clear to quick, but you dont want to wait minuets either.
    Dont be afraid to adjust.
    there are times I adjust several times and times I set it down and leave it alone
    With my sluice, I try to set up with smooth water through the flair with a V on the surface ending just at or slightly behind the first riffle, done leave it alone unless something changes
    You will learn something each time out....get out there

    Bill
    JUSTIN MORALES
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    09 Jul 2018 11:02 AM
    Awesome advice. I will take that al apply it out in the field this weekend and let you guys know how I did. I definitely appreciate the advice thank you
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