It was a piece of expensive JUNK for me! Gold recovery was inconsistent even with hours of ‘fine tuning’ and the motor stopped working the second time I tried using it. I now pan out all my gold using the simple and inexpensive blue Keene gold pan that has the two stage riffles and the ultra fine ridge on the bottom, using the tap, tap method…gets all the gold.

just like some have experienced - i used the blue bowl until i was blue in the face. it never worked good for me. Now i pan by hand. If the gold it really fine i use a miller table.
the blue bowl adjustment is not accurate, difficult to level, difficult to get the flow right, and if you use a battery when the battery starts to wear down you have to readjust everything all over again. no matter what the finest gold stayed in the blue bowl and never was recovered.

Oops! Brain fart moment…I have NO experience using the gold wheel…My apologies!!! I was referring to the “Desert Fox” gold wheel!…a waste of time and $$$! It washed half my flaky and fine gold out time and again after numerous adjustments. The second time I used it the motor wouldn’t work, finally did after I lightly tapped on it for a minute, but about six months later it didn’t work at all. Don’t waste your money on this product!

I find the Miller table to be the best to recover fine gold or any gold, it's a slow process (feed by spoon) but if you have the time it works great, unless you have the money & space to get one of those nice recovery tables like in Gold Rush, this is the best for fine gold. I built a sluice in my garage about 3 1/2' long, half of it at the top is my Miller Table with a deep well so you can control the water flow, this is important and the bottom half is a shallow V mat to capture the rolly-polly gold. I used pay dirt from Nome beach (from Gold Fever Prospecting.com) to fine tune the sluice & I can capture most of the gold, you can never capture it all, but you run the dirt from the mat (or pan it) and from the end bucket about 2 to 3 times and you can get just about all of the fine gold. I have a hole/pocket that I drilled at the top end on the side of the Miller Table part so I can brush the gold into. You would be surprised how much fine gold stays on the Miller table after the black sand washes away. You have to work with the pitch (mine about 2" to 3", sometime less sometimes more) & the water flow (less or more) and make sure it's level side to side. I have a wood frame for the sluice & I built an acrylic sluice to put in the frame so I can pull it out to clean. For the Miller Table I used a blue Chalk paint. When you paint it make sure it cures completely before running water through it. If it peels I would paint one coat then spray with varnish then paint another coat over it, but let it dry for at least a week or two.
Just thought I would share this, hope this helps.
Thank you,
Sergio Ramirez

OH, sorry,
I forgot, very important, make sure you wet your pay dirt before you sluice, do not run it dry, yes gold floats.
Thanks,
Serg

Bought a Royal Engineering "miller" table and agree that it is slow but will recover gold so small hard to see, You Tube it. I have tried almost everything and it's the best. Sometimes I still pan because of the heritage of it. I wait until freeze up and then run all my cons., which are labeled with notes so I know where it came from and the method I used to obtain it.
Lots of very fine gold in Colorado.
Dave Marlow